Monday, August 31, 2009

My Departure.

After arriving home from my last dinner, I finished packing the last few items I could until I had actually showered and dressed the next morning. I checked e-mail, generally fidgeted with certain items and basically expended whatever nervous energy I had. Around 1 AM or so, I finally fell into a deep sleep and was actually rather rudely awakened by my alarm clock at 5:30 AM. After eating the last two granola bars I had in my apartment for breakfast, I showered, dressed, packed my toothbrush and checked my itinerary one last time. As the pre-arranged time I had agreed to meet my friend generous enough to take me to the airport approached, I carried my largest bag downstairs with the last bag of trash. When I came in I pulled the rest of my things out in the hall and dropped my keys for the last time in the wicker bowl on top of the microwave I have dropped them in all year. After one last glance to make sure I had everything important, I cracked the window to let out the moisture from my shower knowing the cleaning woman arriving at noon would also appreciate the room being slightly cool. Convinced I had everything I could take with me, I shut the door knowing I had no chance to open it again.

After carrying all my bags downstairs to the curb, I waited a few minutes for my friend to arrive then helped him cram my three bags into his rather tiny Volkswagen. Still, miraculously it all fit and we were off to the airport. We chatted as we had every Friday or Saturday night since I came to Germany, neither of us really acknowledging how different our lives will be in just a few weeks. Me of course in New York, him taking a new position as well. We departed with a casual goodbye, though I think we both understood the year behind us had been too full for our friendship to be considered casual.

After dragging my bags up to the Lufthansa counter, there was a problem. My flight from Philadelphia to New York had changed times and numbers, so they had to verify that I was still booked all the way home before they could check my baggage. In their rather efficient, German way, they were very polite and helpful, informing me we would have to wait until the US Airways office opened to settle the issue. Well, twenty minutes later, I had been booked, paid the extraordinary fee for my third bag and was walking towards my gate. Out of habit, I walked towards the gate I always leave from at Cologne-Bonn Flughafen, only to realize I had gone into the wrong terminal. So, after a much needed stop at my usual coffee place and my last full interaction in German, I went towards passport control.

There, they told me it was in the system that my wallet had been stolen. Yes, I said, many months before but it was returned to me by the city of Nantes. Well, in that case, she wanted to photocopy my license, my passport and file a report so it could be removed from the computer. As my flight left in ten minutes, I was a bit apprehensive, but I acquiesced, as after all after the year I had enjoyed here, what right did I have to refuse a German bureaucrat some paperwork to do??

After finally resolving the wallet problem, I was allowed to continue to my gate where I rode the bus to the plane with three British women who were returning from some sort of ladies weekend and giving each other a hard time about how much money the spent. It was nice to simply hear English spoken around me and to finally be on my way. The flight from Cologne to London was easy and featured an impressively smooth landing, my last Apfelschorle, an easy Monday crossword and a short nap just to name a few highlights. Deplaning I was struck by the strange feeling of having all the signs around me written in English. Though the voices had been somewhat comforting and pleasant, the paradigm shift made me rather aware I was really leaving Germany. A wave of regret for the lack of German I had learned in my time there rolled over me, knowing I had squandered an excellent opportunity to actually become bilingual.

Then, tragedy struck. The last year has stripped me of and given me many things, and through all those times I had a sturdy umbrella by my side. It was my trademark, a companion of sorts, and really the one thing I wanted to take with me from Europe to New York. Last time I came through Heathrow, they had hassled me about it, but it would not fit in my luggage so I figured I had to try to carry it with me. This time I made almost all the way through the flight transfer stations before at security the last woman refused me. The first woman had been kind enough to see the sadness in my eyes at having it confiscated, so she put it through to see if the woman at the end of the line would accept it. Of course, that woman saw it, immediately pulled it off the belt and told me a smaller umbrella would be allowed but that she was keeping this one. Well, what could I say to her? She looked at me cold and unfeeling. I acknowledged to myself that part of me knew this would happen, but I had come so far and hated to leave it behind. However, I shrugged my shoulders, nodded and moved down the line. It seems I will be leaving Europe exactly as I came. One last act reminding me that my life here as I know it was coming to an end.

After yet one further delay requiring another call to US Airways because the woman handling my transfer was not happy that one of my boarding passes said E-ticket and one said flight coupon required and unwilling to accept the Lufthansa issued boarding card for the flight as said coupon, and I was back in the Heathrow Terminal I last saw 9 months ago. Without thinking, I realized I had sat down on the very bench I had slept on during that long night on my way to my cousin's wedding. And here I sit at a free internet terminal, collecting my thoughts and the remaining items I need to write about the last few days. Though there are surly US customs agents, much heavy lifting, long flights, a long layover and a somewhat emotional reunion ahead of me, it feels like I am almost there. My flight will board in an hour and somehow, after all of this, I will be headed home.

So Long and Thanks for All the Pig.

It need to write a post summing up my time in Deutschland and this title loosely borrowed from Douglas Adams seemed a fitting tribute. So, as I find time, I will be uploading bits and pieces of this post, which will also be recorded for poserity in a beautiful book a friend of mine gave me for Christmas. So, here goes:

Dear Germany,

Ideas to Expand On:

Things I Loved: Trains, Walks, Urban Design, Institutes, Coffee, Ice Cream, the Rhine, Friday Night Beer, Biergartens, Cabbage, Travel, Learning something of a new language, Reading, Music, Cobblestones, Holidays, Alps, Chocolate, West Germany, Berlin, Good Friends, Local Schnapps.

Things that were Hard: Formalism, Pronouncing 'ch' as 'sch', switching the 'y' and 'z' on the keyboard, Loneliness, some remnants of cultural superiority, dealing with a recent tragic past, Bavaria, Local Schnapps.

More to come,

JLM

My Last Day.

My last morning in Germany was spent mostly feeling that Schnapps should be a controlled substance. However, I managed to recover early enough to make it for one last lunch and afternoon with my host and his family. We ate, dodged and trapped wasps, went on a bike ride, had some cake and said goodbye. Despite the communication barrier, I think his kids (especially the youngest) really did enjoy my company. A handshake was of course the proper German goodbye, but it was unsatisfying in a way. They simply said they wished I could come again next week, which was more than enough to express how they were really feeling.

On my last night I met up somewhat randomly with an old friend from high school and have my last Jaegerschnitzel before leaving Bonn. This is the kind of friend where no matter how little you have talked in the past months or years, you always pick up right where you left off last time you saw each other. It was lovely to see her, drink a final beer (however painfully after the night before) with some close friends and fill my stomach with some hearty German fare for the last time in a while. It was subdued, relaxed, reflective. A perfect way to cap off the year and ease my nerves before going home to pack.

The Farewell Fete.

So, on Saturday night of my last weekend I accompanied some friends to a party to really celebrate the end of a term and a birthday. Fortunately, it also doubled quite nicely as a farewell get together. After arriving, we talked, enjoyed the beautiful weather out on their balcony and grilled copious amounts of meat on their barbeque, then ate and drank heartily. Early in the night we simply laughed and told some stories, mostly small talk. After it got dark though, the local Schnapps came out and we started really reminiscing about the last year. The Schnapps was interesting, sweet with a somewhat grassy flavor. Also, it was incredibly strong. It was a fitting way to depart, forging deeper friendships and reflecting on the struggles and successes of the past year. Plus, the local Schnapps claimed plenty of my brain cells in the name of Deutschland. In any case, my friends saw the time and dragged me out the door, then we caught the last tram to the train station. After orating for I really do not know how long about how much I love the violin, the train arrived and it was time to say goodbye. A quick hug and a wave goodbye was all I had as the doors slammed and they were whisked away to Cologne. I stumbled home and hobbled to bed. The last full night of sleep I would have in Bonn and the last time I would see my friends before departing. I was drunk, sad, and also happy ... until the next morning when I was mostly just sad. Ha.

Sunday, August 30, 2009

Auf Wiedersehen.

Well, it appears my time here in Germany has actually come to an end. A friend of mine will be picking me up to take me to the airport here in just about half an hour. In a little less than 24 hours I should be in my new home in New York. Sadly my apartment here looks not much different with all my things packed, but hopefully my absence will be felt in other ways. To everyone here in Europe, I will miss you all. To my family and friends in the US, I'll be home soon. So, off I go.

Thursday, August 27, 2009

My Last Day of Work.

Today will be my last official day as a postdoc here in Bonn. The year has been very hard for me in many ways, but professionally it was rather satisfying. Besides the department (namely my advisor) making my move to Germany fairly simple by providing me with housing and support, the resources and the facilities of the department are second to none. Because of all the activity here, of course the seminar schedule is constantly filled with interesting speakers such as Curtis McMullen and Edward Witten. The new building is rather spectacular actually, and the relevant groups are all placed close together. For me, this mostly means I have easy access to my fellow caffeine starved postdocs to grab them for a late afternoon coffee and discussion.

Somewhat miraculously, during a conversation over coffee in my second week here, my advisor happened to think he could answer a very hard question if I might actually be able to answer a slightly easier one. Well, in the end, it turned out to of course be far more complicated, but with a fair amount of work and a few helpful discussions with colleagues, we are now sitting here with a draft over 60 pages long incredibly near completion after just this one year's time. It is amazing how it came together and really would not have had it not been for some very key insights from my advisor. However, I am glad it did and look forward to getting it out there.

To be fair to Columbia, I am rather lucky to have both postdoc advisors I have had to this point. Though it can be exhausting some days, they have both been extremely generous with their time and each day involves at the very least having a coffee together to talk about our projects and other interesting mathematical concepts. This process will pick back up at Columbia next week where the coffee is a bit more expensive, but at least it is closer to the office. This way, my legs can get a bit of a rest.

In addition to my time in my group alone, with there being the separate HIM, during my first months I met some new colleagues with whom I became fast friends. From them, I have started trying to learn a few things about water waves as well as vortices in micromagnetics and other applications of the Calculus of Variations, a subject I have always liked. As I will be housed in a fairly applied department the next two years, getting some very physical projects going would be a nice development.

In no uncertain terms one can claim this year has been rather successful for me professionally. I am quite glad I came and feel rather lucky to have had the experience of living and working with the friends and collaborators I have met here. To be honest, the idea of going home seems so appealing and overwhelming, it has not really occurred to me that this is my last day to go to work in this department. It disappoints me to be leaving in many ways, but sadness is not the correct word right now. I have made some very good friends who I know I will miss terribly and have started a few interesting lines of research I do not want to lose momentum on studying as always happens a bit in long distance collaborations. However, I am very aware that those friends are organizing workshops I will attend within months really and of course know I will continue working with them on asking and answering interesting questions as long as they let me.

I guess all I can say is it is hard to leave a place that has come to feel like a bit of home for a period of time, where the people and department have made you feel so welcome and given you opportunities you never dreamed of having, where colleagues turned into both good friends and collaborators with great ease, and where something you love is studied with great intensity and passion. However, ahead of me lies moving back in with my wife, trying to reconnect, starting to teach, new and interesting challenges personally and mathematically, as well as the knowledge that maybe all the craziness that comes with a life of constant flux will finally dissipate if I can find someone willing to hire me permanently in two years. In short, though leaving my life here behind is hard to do, getting on the plane on Monday holds the promise of a future as yet unknown but one with great possibility.

My Literary Travels.

So, besides traveling a great deal actual places this last two years, I have also taken many a literary journey. Some of those have been mentioned in the blog already, but just so I do not forget the other (non-math related) books I have read, I figured I would attempt to record them here in chronological order:

The Never Ending Story by Michael Ende
The Final Solution by Michael Chabon
Harry Potter and The Deathly Hallows by J.K. Rowling
The Body Artist by Dom DeLillo
Ex Libris by Anne Fadiman
Anna Karenina by Leo Tolstoy
Last One In by Nicholas Kulish
White Noise by Dom DeLillo
The Satanic Verses by Salman Rushdie
Wicked by Gregory Maguire
I Am America ... And So Can You by Stephen Colbert
Born Standing Up by Steve Martin
The Amazing Adventures of Kavalier and Clay by Michael Chabon
The Iliad by Homer
The Big U by Neal Stephenson
The Complete Sherlock Holmes Collection by Sir Arthur Conan Doyle
Liar's Poker by Michael Lewis
Zodiac by Neal Stephenson
Wonder Boys by Michael Chabon
Band of Brothers by Stephen Ambrose
Brsingr by Christopher Paolini
Discoveries by Alan Lightman
Anathem by Neal Stephenson
The Brothers Karamazov by Fyodor Dostoevsky
David Copperfield by Charles Dickens
Anansi Boys by Neil Gaiman
The Yiddish Policeman's Union by Michael Chabon
The Jungle Books by Rudyard Kipling
Snow Country by Yasunari Kawabata
War and Peace by Leo Tolstoy
Nine Stories by J.D. Salinger
This Way For The Gas by Thadeus Borowski
Herzog by Saul Bellow
A Dirty Job by Christopher Moore
Dress Your Family in Corduroy and Denim by David Sedaris
The Lost Continent by Bill Bryson
Franny and Zooey by J.D. Salinger

Monday, August 24, 2009

Making Up For Lost Time.

Since I only started this blog about 7 months ago, I figured it would be useful to go back and post some of the pictures I have taken from previous trips as a way to catch up. This week is going to get rather busy rather fast, so this seemed like a cheap way to keep some posts going as well. So, here is my first installment from way back in late November of 2008...


So, this weekend I took a train down to a town called Garmisch-Partenkirchen to meet my old friend ES (nee P) and her family. It was a great time exploring around and playing with their kids. We stayed in a US Military hotel called the Edelweiss (C is an officer and pilot in the Navy), so it was a little like sleeping in America and visiting Germany and Austria during the day. Of course, it was nice to turn on ESPN to check the score of the OU game Sunday morning. Ha. I had to bum off E and C within the gates of the hotel because they only took dollars!! Their daughter's names are K (3 years old) and P (5 months old). It was nice to see an old friend and play many games with her daughter. Today, we drove into Munich and though it was a bit nerve wracking finding my train station, I wound up running to the platform with just 1 minute to spare!!! Anyway, hopefully the pictures will tell the story but it was a great visit.
E with K (who is smiling!) after getting back in the car following our trip to Innsbruck, Austria. I of course left my camera in the car but Innsbruck was not terribly exciting, even though it has been home to two Winter Olympics. However, K got to ride both a real pony and a carousel pony, so it was still a success even though it was wet, cold and hazy all day! Chris also showed some mad skills handing the car on ice driving us all around.

The carousel, Christmas market and the mist covering the mountains as we left Innsbruck.
The view from our hotel room at the Edelweiss. There were two beds and a fold out couch for the five of us, but only one shower. So, we all slept comfortably but had some time to get going in the mornings.

C, E and K posing in our room with P hiding on the bed amongst her blankets. :) The day in Innsbruck was so hazy we came back to the hotel. C and I took K and P to the pool while E visited the spa.

Here is a clear view from the hotel.
On Sunday, we headed up to what we understood was the tallest peak in Germany or the Zugspitze. As we left I could not avoid this shot since it looks like the quintessential Alp.

E and K getting bundled up for the trip to the top. Fortunately they have a gondola, we were not preparing for a major hike. :)

P in her polar bear suit will make you friends instantly anywhere in the world.

C with his girls waiting for the train to the gondola.

E and me waiting for the train also. As you can see, I was on blanket duty.
E, C and P enjoying the view as we go up the mountain.

P seems to be wondering just what is in store for her on this trip.

A view from the point where you get off the train.
Some easy ski slopes with a rather interesting system of lifts.
K peering out the bottom window of the gondola up to the peak.
Mountains in the distance.

More gondola pics. I believe that is E's hand also getting the same photo.
Yours truly on the gondola.

The view from the top is pretty spectacular.

An amazing mountain lake visible from the peak.
Another lake shot.

Yet another.
What can I say ... I like lakes.

Here I am at the peak. It was -20 degrees C (~ -4 degrees F), so we quickly went in for lunch and warm drinks.

P going local.

E and K at lunch. After this, we went and had hot drinks and awesome chocolate cake before leaving the peak.
Everyone watching our new view from the larger gondola that goes ALL the way down the mountain.
P has to be the most laid back baby in history. Certainly the most laid back polar bear.

E on the gondola.
C and P warming up and resting after our trip to the top.
Scenes from our morning in Munich. This happened to be a nice building near where we parked.
Though it is being renovated, this is the rather impressive Frauenkirchen. I would have shots from inside but Mass was going on while we were there so I did not get to take any.

One of many gratuitous clock shots.

Crazy old tombstone.

Busy Munich area.

The Glockenspiel!!
More Glockenspiel aka another clock shot.
The moving pieces of the Glockenspiel.

The actual Munich town hall building.

This building was obviously really amazing to me. However, Bavaria was kind of an odd place. I liked it, but I think I like Western Germany a bit more.

E and I are both into clock shots.

Managed to get two clocks in this shot of old town Munich.

K really liked the fountain.

E and K posing by the fountain.

One more clock.

Extreme close up!!

The front of a museum.

A War Monument.
K enjoying a giant Christmas tree before we high tailed it back to the car and got to the Munich-Pasing train station just in time.